Blog

A blog about my the history, acquisition and operation of my 1911 Model 62 Stanley Steamer.

Understanding the Packard Pilot

The pilot in a Stanley is extremely important. Without it you have no source of ignition for your main burner which can lead to  a lot spent on the side of the road relighting and an overwhelming sense of uneasiness when operating the vehicle. It is with that mind set I have put together this information.

The Packard Pilot vs the Stanley Pilot

 First thing first the Packard pilot is not the exact same as the Stanley unit. They are very close but they are not identical. I'd learned this in a conversation with Don Bourdon (Bourdon Boiler Works) . The primary difference is in the adjustment adjustment needle. A Packard pilot operates with a long adjustable needle that actually seats in to the nozzle. It's much like the mixture adjustment on a brass era carburetor,  if you tighten it in all the way you can actually stop the flow of fuel. The original Stanley operates with a different needle and seat adjustment. The needle has a flat on one side that is used to control the amount of fuel sprayed. It does not have the range of adjustment that the Packard unit has and the flat portion of the needle really meters the amount of fuel being consumed.

Lighting the Pilot

 The key, literally, to getting a Stanley running is getting the pilot lit. You heat the pilot vaporizer with a torch until it reaches temperature to vaporize the pilot fuel. Once at temperature you cycle the pilot fuel valve until the pilot burner ignites. The ideal flame is yellow tipped that is just lifting off the burner grate. Original Stanley documentation says to always run the pilot as high as possible with little concern for consumption of pilot fuel. I believe it is a good practice as long as it doesn't smoke.

Flooding

 Flooding a the pilot can happen any time you spray an excess amount of fuel into the pilot burner that cannot be burned. The fuel will collect in the pilot burner casting and overflow into the burner pan. This can happen rather quickly and isn't always apparent to the operator. Once you have a collection of raw fuel in the burner pan that ignites you have no choice but to shut off the pilot valve and let the fire burn out. In extreme cases the flaming liquid can drip out of the burner pan onto the front axle and strut brace. It is also usually common to have fire right at the tip of the pilot seat. The key to dealing with this type of fire is controlling any further addition of fuel and keeping calm. With that in mind I always wind the pilot adjustment completely closed. The needle valve isn't supposed to be a shut off valve but extreme situations call for extreme measures. This will stop the residual fuel in line between the needle valve  and the pilot shutoff valve from adding to the fire. This type of flooding can happen when you are starting the Stanley from cold or if the pilot fails to vaporize fuel when driving. The major causes of flooding are using a fuel that is not able to vaporize completely with the heat provided or having the needle valve to far open thus causing the same vaporization issue.

Adjustment

 There are really only three adjustments the operator can make on the pilot assembly. The first is to adjust the amount of fuel that is coming out of the nozzle by turning the needle valve. The second is to slide the pilot vaporizer forwards and backwards over the burner casting thus moving the H casting and modifying the air fuel mixture. The third is to adjust the fuel pressure that is feeding the pilot. A strong reliable pilot is a result of the best balance of these three adjustments. I'd like to start by providing my adjustments that have seemed to be working very well.

  • I run the needle valve one and a quarter to one and a half turns open. Two full turns is to much!
  • My vaporizer is in, over the pilot burner as far as it will go  .
  • My fuel pressure is at 10psi
  • I'm running Hexane as a fuel that boils at 68.7 degrees Celsius

In Conclusion

 The pilot is the key of a good operating Stanley. Don't try to mixing or changing fuels and expect all of your adjustments to stay the same. Be prepared to take the time needed to get things right and you'll have many years of happy touring.

A day of tinkering

Having found an afternoon of free time I thought it was best I get back to the steamer.  I sodered together the water filter.  Moved the boiler fill hose bib to the front of the car and replaced a couple of the copper boiler feed lines with stainless steel tube. Installed a filter on the pilot fuel line and main fuel line, each being located on the inlet side of the dash valves.

In my evening reading of the Stanley Technical Bulletins I noticed that they speak of the pilot vaporizer being able to be adjusted by sliding it in and out of the casting. They go on to mention that the nozzle should be flush with the mixing tube or slightly inside it. Mine is outside the mixing tube be about a quarter inch. I don't believe this is the cause of my none vaporizing problem because it would only cause a lean condition...then again maybe that is causing a weak flame thus it is the problem. Needless to say it is getting bench tested before it goes back in.

Water Filter

Fuel Filters Installed

The Pilot

Ever since we first steamed the Stanley up we have had issues with the pilot running much too rich when you come to a stop after driving any real distance. Our first thoughts were that this was caused because the pilot pressure was set at 30 PSI. But after lowering it to 10 PSI and not seeing any serious improvement we started looking a little closer. After inspection of the pilot assembly itself we noticed the adjustment needle was in very poor shape and realized that it would have to be replaced.​

This car runs a Packard Pilot and the parts are available through John Packard. After a discussion with John Packard and Don Bourdon I was informed that I should also replace the pilot vaporizer with a longer unit and add a pilot shield while I have it apart. The addition of these items will help keep the pilot from going out as easily and possibly aid in solving my rich pilot issue.    

​Everything went together relatively smoothly except we had to modify the the pilot vaporizer because the branch forks wouldn't clear the banjo fitting on the inlet side. This was remedied by shorten the visible portion about 3/4" and re-threading it. Thanks for the help with that Atlas!

Being that the new valves came in we decided to replace the pilot shut off valve at the front of the vehicle and the drivers side blow down valve because we already had things partially apart. The pilot shutoff valve at the front of the car was just an 1/8" inline ball valve that had seen some miles and some fires. We replaced it with a proper Stanley shutoff valve and located it on the far right. The drivers side blow down valve was also incorrect. It was a high pressure water valve with a modified Stanley handle. We mounted the correct valve on the far right in a fashion to match the blow down on the other side.